Central
Valley
The Central Valley or Meseta
Central, is the center of Costa Rica due to its geographical
location, culture and economic activities. The altitude
of the valley is between 3000 to 4000 feet above sea level.
It is surrounded by mountains and semi-active volcanoes
such as Poás and Irazú. Its fertile volcanic soil make
it ideal place for growing anything, including some of
the world's best coffee. It is not surprising that over
half of Costa Rica's people live in this area because of
its almost perfect year-round climate.
There is a wide range of housing
in the Central Valley. San
Jose real estate Decent affordable
housing ranges from $50,000 to $100,000 while medium prices
range from $100,000 to $250,000. Recently, there has been
a boom in the construction industry which has created a wide
variety of affordable new homes from which to choose. However,
older homes also abound and are sometimes a better deal because
they often have larger parcels of land.
Deciding where to live in Costa
Rica depends on your preferences. If you like the stimulation
of urban living and spring-like weather all year, you will
probably be happiest living in San
José or one of
the adjacent smaller towns and cities in the Central Valley.
As we mention later in this
book, there are hundreds of activities for everyone in, around
and near San José. The infrastructure is excellent and this
area offers almost all of the amenities of living in the
U.S.
Retirement is a big change for
many people because they find themselves with more free time
than usual and sometimes get bored. This should be a problem
if you reside in the San José area since there is a large
North American community and it is always easy to find something
to do.
The are a couple of drawbacks
to living in San José proper. Like most cities San José is
crowded, noisy and there is some pollution from buses and
cars. There is also some crime in the downtown area. If you
own a vehicle it is hard to find a place to keep it except
for public parking lots. Despite these shortcomings, we do
know quite a few Americans who live in the center of town
because it is convenient and there is a lot to do to stay
busy.
One friend from Florida loves
this area because he is right in thick of the action in the
Gringo Gulch area. Another American likes to spend all day
in front of the Hotel Costa Rica seated at one of the tables
talking with other expatriates and people watching. The latter
is a favorite among foreigners in the downtown area. There
are a couple of group of gringos who gather for coffee
and conversation most days at McDonalds and The Grand Hotel
Costa Rica next to The Plaza de la Cultura and National Theater.
Newcomers can make some instant friends there.
Many North Americans, who do
not want to live too far from town, reside around the Sabana
Park. Most of them reside in nearby Sabana norte and Sabana
sur. Restaurants, gyms, the new Más por Menos supermarket
and a variety of stores and services are all found in this
area.
Located at the west end of Paseo
Colón is the sprawling Sabana Park. It is the largest
of Costa Rica's urban parks and is within walking distance
of San José and neighboring Rohrmoser. La Sabana was originally
the site of the country's international airport. It is now
covered with tall trees, a lake, jogging trails, an Olympic
size-pool, recreational facilities and many more attractions
for the general public. The fashionable suburb of Rohrmoser,
on the west-side of Sabana Park, is very popular with people
who want to live in a suburban area close to San José. Living
in Rohrmoser is much like having a home near New York's Central
Park or San Francisco's Golden Gate Park. The main tree-lined
street or Rohrmoser Bouleveard runs right through the center
of this neighborhood, virtually bisecting it in half. Rohrmoser
is bordered on the south by the Pavas Highway. Just about
any type of store you might need is found along this busy
thoroughfare as well as the US Embassy to the west.
Rohrmoser has many beautiful
homes of wealthy Costa Ricans and is considered very safe,
since a large number of well-guarded foreign embassies are
there. Home prices start at around $80,000 on the low end,
from $80,000 to $125,000 for a mid range home and $250 for
an upper end home. Rents begin at $500. When we lived there
a few years ago we paid $600 for a three bedroom-three bath
penthouse apartment with a panoramic view of the mountains.
Excellent supermarkets, boutiques,
international restaurants, the Cemaco department store, pharmacies,
bars, discos, doctor's offices, health clubs and the modern
Plaza Mayor Shopping Center are also located in and around
this upscale neighborhood.
For you nighthawks there is
even a 24-hour mini-market at the Shell gas station. The
only thing bad about Rohrmoser is that bus service to downtown
San José is not good, but you can always take a taxi since
they are so affordable.
About five minutes east of downtown
San José, sits the residential neighborhood of Los Yoses. Like
all areas east of downtown San José, there is a mixture of
new and old homes and businesses. Many foreigners live in
this area because it is only a short walk to downtown San
José. The Centro Cultural Costarricense-Norteamericano is
located in this area so there are interesting activities
to keep a person occupied (There is also a smaller branch
in Sabana Norte next to the American Chamber of Commerce).
Los Yoses boasts a bowling alley, a supermarket complex,
a bookstore and many bars and restaurants. The gigantic San
Pedro Mall is found on the eastern edge of this neighborhood. Barrio
Escalante, slightly to the north of Los Yoses, has many
older homes and stately mansions. The area provides a glimpse
of how the upper crust used to live in Costa Rica. Many foreigners
prefer this area since it is so close to downtown and there
is some reasonably priced housing available. Prices range
from about $80,000 on up. Rents start at about $300 for a
small apartment
Just east of Los Yoses is San
Pedro-the home of the University of Costa Rica. The
campus and surrounding area resemble many U.S. college
towns with its many student hangouts, restaurants, bookstores,
nightspots, boutiques and two large shopping malls. You
can spend the day sitting at a table at one of the many
sidewalk cafes and check out the passersby. A definite
bohemian-like ambience fills the air. Some interesting
event or cultural activity is always happening in or around
the university. During April, the annual University Week
celebration takes place. This spectacle includes floats
and a carnival-like atmosphere. Low-priced student
apartments are available within walking distance of the
university.
Another place you might consider
living is Escazú -a popular suburb where many North
Americans reside and sometimes referred to as the Beverly
Hills of Costa Rica due to its upscale cosmopolitan-like
atmosphere. In the words of one American who lives there, "Escazu
is an odd modern conglomeration of micro niches and little
islands of green, stitched together by pot holed roads, and
pocked with condo complexes, great mansions behind ominous
gates, and little tin barrios where the wash bakes in the
noonday sun."
Escazú is about five miles
west of San José, 10 to 15 minutes driving time on the old
two-lane road or new autopista, (highway).
Since most of this town is located on hilly terrain, it is
especially appealing to those people who like cooler temperatures.
In fact, Escazú is one of the more popular places English-speaking
foreigners live. Bus service is excellent to and from San
José. You can catch either a micro-bus or regular bus in
the park behind the church in downtown Escazú.
Despite being quaint and country-like,
Escazú has all the amenities of any North American suburb:
pharmacies, mini-malls, supermarkets, excellent English-speaking
private schools, first-class restaurants, trendy shops, doctors,
dentists, a post office and much more. The main entrance
to Escazú has so many US franchises, you may find it hard
to believe you're not in the States. If you reside here you
won't have to go to San José for basic services unless you
want to. There is even a beautiful private country club and
golf course. Housing is plentiful, but expensive because
Escazú is popular with wealthy Costa Ricans and well-to-do
foreigners. You can find simple tico-style single-family
homes, condos, highrise penthouses and even country estates
scattered around this area.
Trejos Montealegre is
a neighborhood just off the highway which boasts many homes,
condos and apartments from which to choose. Some upper-end
homes in Escazú cost a couple of hundred thousand to one
million dollars. However, if you are living on a budget or
small pension you can find more affordable housing in San
Antonio de Escazú. There are many affordable tico-style
homes scattered around this area. Because this area is very
exclusive, home prices start at around $100,000. Mid range
homes and condos go for around $150,000 and upper end prices
start at about $300,000. Rents range from $800 to $2,500
or more monthly.
Santa Ana, nestled in
the "Valley of the Sun", is more rural than Escazú. This
fast-growing village is about four miles west of Escazú and
has a good mix of Costa Ricans and foreigners residing there.
Santa Ana's warm climate makes it almost perfect place to
live. At one time Santa Ana was a popular weekend retreat
and summer home for well-to-do Costa Ricans. Many foreigners
and ordinary Costa Ricans reside in this town of 2,500 inhabitants
now. You can get to Santa Ana by taking the old scenic road
from Escazú through the hills or by the new highway. We recommend
checking out this town. Downtown Santa Ana retains a small
town flavor. It is more rural and less developed than Escazú but
there are good supermarkets and some shopping. You don't
have to go to San José for your essential products. Lately
there has been a building boom in the area. Homes here are
more reasonably priced than in Escazú. Luxury homes in a
secure gated community are a popular choice for middle-to-high
income budgets. An upscale four-bedroom home in a gated community
will cost between $200,000 to $375,000. Lots run between
$50 -$75 per square meter.
Cuidad Colón, located
about twenty minutes beyond Santa Ana, is the farthest western
suburb of San Jose. Some foreigners live there. In a year
a new highway extending from Ciudad Colón to the town of
Orotina will reduce driving time to the beach from the Central
Valley in half. Beyond Ciudad Colón is the mountain town
of Puriscal. The cooler mountain climate makes this
town appealing. This town is perfect for people who seek
affordable housing, more land for their money and rural living.
There are a few properties that have views of both the ocean
and Central Valley. Many people who live in Puriscal commute
daily to San José since bus service is good.
The town of San Antonio de
Belén, a laid-back town behind the airport and just
a couple of miles off the main highway west of the Cariari,
is another good spot to live. This town has experienced
a great deal of growth since INTEL's mammoth plant opened
a few years ago and Marriot built a five-star hotel in
the area. A couple of nice gated communities can be found
there. Home prices, rents and land are lower than Escazú,
Santa Ana and Cariari. The Ojo de Agua recreational
complex is also in this area.
If you wish to combine an urban
life and warmer weather, you can reside in San José's neighboring
city Alajuela, Costa Rica's second largest city located
almost next to the airport. This quiet city is about 20 minutes
by bus from downtown San José and has everything you want
in a city without the city feeling. The bus service is excellent
during the day, so it is easy to commute to San José if necessary.
Because of the warm climate, many Americans live in Alajuela,
so you can easily make new acquaintances. Try the city's
shady central park that is a perfect place to sit and relax
or socialize with the many locals or fellow expats who gater
there in the afternoon. The park is impressive with a lot
of tall, ancient trees which are a testament to the city's
grandeur. There are other nice parks, movies, restaurants,
doctors, supermarkets and more in this city. The town's central
market is only a couple of blocks west of the central park.
Meats, fish, vegetables, fresh fruits and a variety of other
odds and ends can be found all under one roof. On weekends
the city holds a large outdoor farmers market where all kinds
of bargains can be found. If nothing else the carnival-like
atmosphere of this outdoor market place provides an excellent
opportunity to mingle with the locals. Other local attractions
are a bird zoo, a butterfly farm, national parks, the Poás
volacano and much more. Housing in the Alajuela area is plentiful
and also very reasonably priced when compared to San José.
Prices range from about $20,000 to $300,000 and rents begin
at around $300.
Ciudad Cariari, about
5 miles west of San José and about five minutes before the
airport, is an upscale development of mostly newer homes
and condos. Housing in this gated community ranges between
$130,000 to $350,000. This area is perfect for those interested
in country-club living. Within this area are the Cariari
Hotel and Costa Rica's oldest golf course, the Cariari Country
Club, the Los Arcos neighborhood and the American International
School - one of the best English-language schools in the
country. A couple of golfer friends of ours live in this
area and really like living next to the golf course. Right
across the main highway from Carari sits the Real Cariari
Mall.
La Garita, a pleasant
area west of the airport on the road to the Central Pacific
beach areas of Jacó, Hermosa and Quepos, is said to have
one of the best climates in Costa Rica. An average year round
temperature of 72 degrees makes it hard to beat. There are
many foreigners living in this town. Some large homes come
with large parcels of land. We have a friend who rented a
home with a pool, a couple of acres of land and a watchman
for a very reasonable price. There is also a small zoo and
an excellent restaurant called La Fiesta del Maíz .
Heredia, "The City of
the Flowers" located halfway between San José and Alajuela
at the foot of Barva Volcano, is very suitable for living.
The surrounding countryside is very beautiful, especially
above the city. The hills overlooking the city offer some
of the most spectacular views of the Central Valley.
Heredia is only a short distance
from San José by car or bus. There are three bus lines with
service to San José every five minutes.
Heredia is a quaint university
town and still retains its rich colonial heritage. Many old
Spanish-style buildings made out of adobe with tile roofs
can still be found near the center of the city. Heredia's
beautiful Central Park is one of the finest in the country
. It has an imposing old church on one side and a large water
fountain. Concerts and music festivals Are often held in
the park. There are plans for a cobblestone pedestrian street
which will run from the north side of the park east to the
university.
There is a group of expats who
hang out at the two restaurants on the southwest side of
the park. They can be found sitting there every morning.
You will find it easy to strike up a conversation. You can
meet colorful local characters like "Mr. Goldman," "Search
Engine" Bill, or "Banana Bread" Steve.
In recent years the city's entertainment
and nightlife scene have improved. Bars catering to college
students and thrill-seeking tourists dot the area around
the National University. Numerous internet cafés coffee shops
and bookstores contribute to the college atmosphere.
Heredia also has unique restaurants
which offer international fare . Pn e Vino is one of the
best Italian restaurants in the country. Paseo de las Flores
is a new new shopping mall near the entrance of the city.
On Saturday there is a large open air farmer's market in
the south part of the city where you can buy fresh fruits
and vegetables at bargain prices.
Many foreign retirees now live
in live in Heredia beacuse of the low cost of housing. Here,
you may find a lot of affordable homes for under $100,000.
At present, there is a construction boom in small gated communities
on the outskirts of the Heredia area. We know several foreigners
who rent nice apartments in downtown Heredia for only a few
hundred dollars per month.
Carson Sims has a beautiful
three bedroom apartment near the university with all of the
amenities. Five or six other Americans live in the same building.
Carson loves his apartment because off its great location.
He says, "In I can walk around the corner to the pharmacy.
I have three supermarkets within 4 blocks. There are several
restaurants and places where my friends gather all within
walking distance. My brother lives in the States and makes
over $500,000 yearly. I would never trade my lifestyle here
in Heredia for his."
San Rafael de Heredia is
in the hills above the city of Heredia. The most notable
feature of this area is the climate, which is considerably
cooler than that in San José. Wealthy Costa Ricans and some
foreigners live there. The town's most salient feature is
a huge church which may be seen from many miles away. The
Sunday feria or outdoor market is a real plus for
the town.
Or good friend Joe Brennen bought
a nice home for under $100,000 which overlooks San Rafael
and the Central Valley.
If you prefer living in a cooler
alpine-like setting, you can find nice homes and cabins all
over the pine-covered mountains surrounding the Central Valley. Los
Angeles de Heredia, to the north of San Rafael, is a
favorite with foreigners because of its pastoral setting.
The nearby areas around Monte de la Cruz and San
José de la Montańa are all similar but sparsely populated
and cooler because of their higher elevation. We know
several Americans who live near the mountain towns of Barva and Birrí.
San Isidro de Heredia is
an absolutely spectacular area to the east of Heredia. Gentle
rolling verdant hills and meadows surround this Swiss-alpine
like town. This area remains green even during the dry season
due to its cool climate. Many Americans live in the San Isidro
area. Phil form San Diego just purchased a huge parcel of
land with an unbelievable view of the Irazú volcano. He paid
about $80,000 for the land with a farmhouse. He is presently
refurbishing it and plans to build his dream home on another
part of the property. Ana Brown and her late husband built
a quaint home in the Calle Chavez area of San Isidro. Phil
Baker from San Diego has a beautiful property nearby with
a 360 degree view and meditation garden .
Another neighboring city, Cartago, "just
over the hill" from San José, was the former capital of Costa
Rica during the colonial period. The city lies 30 minutes
to the east of San José, and became the capital after an
earthquake destroyed old Cartago. Perhaps the cooler year-round
temperatures, explain why fewer North Americans reside there.
Many Costa Ricans live in Cartago work in San José since
bus service between the two cities is excellent. The nicest
thing about Cartago is its proximity to the beautiful Orosi
Valley. The valley lies about 60 minutes east of San
José. Viewed from above, this Shangrala-esque valley is breathtaking.
The spring-like temperatures on the valley floor stay the
same all year. On one end of the valley is a large man-made
lake, Cachí, and a park where one can participate
in many recreational activities from picnicking to water
sports. The lake is fed by the famous Reventazón white-water
river that runs through the Orosi Valley. The area's other
main attractions are waterfalls, nature reserves and several
hot springs. We consider the Orosí Valley one of the most
beautiful spots in the country and are surprised not more
foreigners choose to live there.
Grecia, known as the
cleanest town in Costa Rica, is also a place worth investigating.
This tranquil agricultural town, about 30 miles from San
José, has a beautiful central park, a famous church made
of metal panels and an ideal climate. On Sunday evenings
many residents stroll around the park just like in the days
of old. The rolling hills surrounding the town are full of
nice spots to live. Grecia will soon be the home of Plaza
Grecia. It will house over 75 shops and be one of the first
malls constructed in the region.
Nearby is the town of Sarchí,
famous for its handicrafts and wood products. Other towns
worth checking out for living in the west are Naranjo, San
Ramón and Palmares. We know of a few Americans
and Europeans who live in and around these laid-back towns
and are very happy.
Nestled in the foothills at
the far end of the Central Valley, the picturesque rural
town of Atenas offers panoramic views of the Central
Valley and nearby volcanoes. Athens has a friendly, small-town
atmosphere, and - according to National Geographic - the
world's best climate. Three bedroom homes range from $80,000
to $100,000. Land costs around $5 per square meter.
Orotina, located over
the hill and west of Atenas, is a nice size little
tico town. Fruit and nuts is what they do best, but there
are plenty of horse farms and cattle ranches around. This
area gradually developing; there is a lot of land for sale..
If you want a quiet tico town, Orotina could be for you.
There are few North Americans in the town. There is a bilingual
school, where some people send kids there from as far away
as Jaco Beach.
For those seeking a more relaxed
life style, many other small towns and fincas (farms)
are scattered all over the Central Valley. These places are
ideal for people who can do without the excitement found
in and around large cities.
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